Hi, this is John with trench drain systems today we’re here to talk about the Zurn Z884 system.
This handy four-inch system is good for residential and small commercial applications such as pools, driveways and kitchens. The channel has design features built right into it which help with installations such as the rebar clips on the sides.
Unlike many systems this size this channel offers an inside lip for the grate to rest on. This design element – taken from commercial systems – really improves the system’s durability.
The channels go together easy with the tongue and groove connection. This makes for easy installation down your channel run. Once the channels are together, use their screw holes to connect them together permanently.
At the beginning or end of your run you can put an end cap with the screws provided. Your run can also end with a two inch outlet – also put on with screws. There’s also a bottom outlet option which can be placed in the center of the channel or at the end, and this is also attached with screws.
As far as grating options go, for the Z884 system we have a cast iron slotted grate this is good for residential systems when the system is properly installed in concrete. In addition to cast iron grates we also have stainless steel and galvanized grating. These are available in slotted or you can also get them in a heel proof perforated version.
As far as plastic rating goes Zurn offers a heel-proof transverse slotted grate in seven different colors: there’s a standard which is light gray, there’s also dark grey, white, tea and cream, brown, black and green. So for your next drainage project consider the Zurn Z884 system.
Ever since the rise of plastic trench drains, there have been three big misconceptions about plastic driveway drains.
they’re not traffic rated (FALSE)
they’re not sloped (FALSE)
they’re not decorative (FALSE)
Popular plastic channel drains only provide surface level view of your options. Based on a trip to their local chain store, a homeowner would expect a gray plastic Spee-D Channel. But you can do better with your driveway drain.
Pre-Sloped Driveway Drains
Pre-sloped trench drains aren’t a necessity, but they do make things easier. A trench drain with a built in grade drains water faster than non-sloped drains, meaning less sediment build up inside the trench drain.
I’d recommend one of two big names in plastic trench drains for a residential driveway project:
NDS Dura Slope Driveway Drains
NDS Dura Slope is a 6” commercial grade system made from HDPE (high density polyethylene). It comes in 4ft sections that combine to create longer runs of sloped drain. At .7% slope, Dura Slope ranks among the highest flow rates of any system its size.
You can also use outlet options to adjust Dura Slope’s layout. Though 4” end outlets are most common, you can build in a 4” bottom outlet. Catch basins with trash baskets create a handy water reservoir during big storms that also prevents leafy debris from getting past the drain into the piping below.
And Dura Slope is built for traffic right down to the grates. The system’s “basic” grate option is a light traffic plastic grate perfect for cars, SUVs and light trucks. From there you’ll be able to upgrade to iron grates, which are rated for more commercial traffic such as delivery vans and trash trucks.
Storing tractors or fork trucks in your garage? You may want to consider frames for your Dura Slope system.
Zurn Z886 Driveway System
Zurn’s HDPE Z886 is a popular name in 6” commercial systems, which doesn’t make it better so much as a brand to be reckoned with. With a 4” ID width, it has roughly the same water capacity as the competition. Capacity aside, Z886’s .75% slope actually offers the most slope of any system its size.
The big perk of using Z886 for driveways comes on bigger projects. Z886 channels are two meters (80”) long, meaning a faster installation and fewer joints. Fewer joints mean less chance of the drain going crooked or needing to be re-leveled during installation.
The area where Z886 excels is grating options. Though they don’t have traffic rated plastic grates, Zurn does offer ductile iron, fiberglass and stainless steel in traffic-rated varieties. The price and material can get excessive for a simple residential project, but luckily Z886’s ductile iron grate is a good standard to fall back on. Don’t let the options get to your head.
Non-sloped Driveway Drains
Slope isn’t a given, and you’re not likely to see it in drains smaller than 6” wide. Lest we get nervous about effective drainage, however, it is worth reviewing a principle: water always seeks its own level. If there is a lower place where water can go, it will find its way there. Don’t agonize over it.
Non-sloping drains will generally be smaller than 6” and have fewer options. For example, don’t expect catch basins.
Polylok for Driveways
Polylok is surprisingly heavy duty for a 5” plastic drain that works in driveways. Its sturdy channel walls enable it to handle H-20 wheel loads, but you’ll have to install the drain in concrete to see the benefits. Luckily, the system is designed for easy assembly and quick concrete installation.
Homeowners, whether installing Polylok in a driveway or a patio, enjoy Polylok’s layout flexibility. The system offers T-intersections and corner segments without the special fabricating you’d need with pre-sloped systems like Z886 and Dura Slope.
Notably, Polylok’s color options extend to the channel itself. Your choice of black, gray, sand or green grates come with matching drain body, eliminating pesky edge lines so common in trench drains. And, if you need a ductile iron grate, it’s easy to maintain style by pairing the grate with a black channel.
Pro-Series 5 in Driveways
The 5” Pro-Series by NDS combines a solid channel construction with the bells and whistles of a bigger system. Pro-Series is a commercial system disguised by its HDPE composition. But Pro-Series 5 has a lot going for it.
For starters, the channel drain comes in shallow (2-5/8”) and deep (4-3/4”) varieties. Both include grooves every 4 inches in case you need to cut the system to a shorter-than-standard lengths. While shallow channel drains don’t allow you to design corners, they do offer side outlets that you can’t get with deeper channels. Pro-Series’ deeper channels, meanwhile, offer 90- and 45- elbows. They also include radius couplers, allowing the system to “bend” by six degrees.
Both channel profiles accept the same grates, which range from pedestrian-only perforated to galvanized steel slotted and H-20 rated iron grates. The most common grate for residential driveways, however, is a light traffic slotted grate (available in six colors) that handles up to 72 gallons per minute… per foot.
Plastic trench drains are giving traditional drains serious competition in driveway applications. But don’t make the mistake of buying from a chain hardware store expecting to get the strength or full range of design available on the market.
The Pro Series channel has a grating recess that is supported by concrete rather than the plastic channel itself.
MEArin 100 is actually a fiber-reinforced plastic system, but it is popular on residential projects because of its affordability and decorative grating options.
At 5.3” wide, MEArin 100 has the chops to take on more commercial systems. Each fiberglass channels comes with a solid construction and provides a pre-marked recess for bottom outlets.
Unlike many pre-sloped drains, MEArin 100 also offers affordable, pre-fabricated corners to make installation in large driveway pads easier.
You can choose from 20 grating options, Class A (pedestrian only) to Class C. Ductile iron and galvanized steel grates will work in driveways and garages.
Here’s a quick reference list of the top plastic driveway drains available:
NDS Dura Slope
NDS 5” Pro Series
MEA’s MEArin 100
Have a driveway related question? Give us a call at 610-638-1221 to discuss your driveway drain project. Or, send in photos and questions to email@example.com.
Trench Drain Systems gets a lot of questions about the 5 inch NDS Pro-Series product line. Our expert, John, went over some standard product features to help you know a bit more about the drains.
NDS designed the channels to join together without couplers. They fit together tongue-and-groove.
That’s already an improvement. Most residential drains need an extra part to fit together, and eliminating that saves a lot of hassle.
But each channel also has these anchoring ribs every 4 inches that really grab the concrete. If you need a smaller piece of drain, just cut at any of these points to get a smaller channel that still interlocks.
Pro Series outlets connect directly, whether it’s this bottom outlet or an end outlet. Everything attaches to 3” S&D and 4 inch S&D fitting SPT.
The shallow version – yes there’s a shallow option – only has an inch and a half outlet for Sch. 40 pipe. There’s no built-in bottom outlet, but the shallow profile DOES have a nifty extension for 3 inch S&D bottom outlets and inch and a half side outlets.
Now. If you choose the Deep or Shallow profile … either way, they connect the same, and they take the same grates.
And those grates have a lot of variety.
5″ Pro Series has a gray perforated grate perfect for pedestrians. With these small openings, you get a trade-off: It doesn’t handle much water but it is ADA compliant and heel-friendly.
This light traffic grate handles almost three times as much water as the perforated grate. It’s also more robust, so you can drive across it. This one’s the most popular option because it comes in 6 colors and is still ADA Compliant.
These two grates are commercial-grade. Both are H-20 load rated, so start thinking tractor-trailers and forklifts.
When faced with the prospect of selecting a channel drain for your swimming pool deck, your task can seem overwhelming. Your contractor may only have a handful of the drain products available in his regional marketplace. Additionally, if you are looking for custom or design-specific grating options, you may have to spend many nights researching on your own for a product that is just right. A deck drain consultant can be a big time saver.
Pool deck drain selection is a balancing act between deck design, functionality, aesthetics, safety and cost. It is important that the pool owner weigh the relative value that each of these features have to his project prior to designing the pool drain.
1. Budget Considerations
Is cost the overall driving factor in your selection? Or, would you consider a drain with a little something extra to act as a conversation piece? In the pool drain world, there is a broad spectrum of product costs. The standard 1.5″ wide deck drains, which inevitably get clogged and break, are at the bottom of the spectrum. From there, systems are available in all cost ranges, up to 10 times the cost of the low end product. I should point out that quality systems are available at affordable prices for those watching the budget. In general, pre-sloped systems are more expensive than neutral (non-sloped) systems. However, pre-sloped systems have installation advantages that we will point out below.
2. Functionality Considerations
When I start discussing a pool deck drain with a client I ask them, “How is the pool deck to be constructed?” Is the deck made of poured concrete, pavers, or tile? All drains can be installed in a concrete deck construction, but not all drains work well with paver stone or tile. Drainage systems that are designed with straight walls provide a linear surface that are great for laying paving stones against. If the drain body has legs or support structure that are too close to the top edge of the channel, abutment of pavers will be compromised.
Examples of this are shown below. Mini Channel and Polycast are both systems with straight walls and play well with paving stone. Dura Slope and Pro-series #5 have rebar connection features that make it impossible for pavers to lay adjacent. These latter products need to be encased in concrete prior to laying the paving stone. In streetscape applications, this may be a reasonable design approach.
3. Drain Capacity
Wrapped in this conversation we should begin to consider how large of a drain we need for the deck application. How large is the project and how much water is the drain required to handle? Is this an Olympic sized pool or are we looking at a back yard sauna? Long drains generally need to have a pre-sloped channel body if you plan to have only one drain outlet. Neutral drain bodies, like NDS Mini Channel, can be used in long or complex drain designs as long as they are designed with bottom outlets every 15 – 20 feet. This requires a parallel plumbing design running beneath the deck drain. Though a little more complex in the construction, frequent bottom outlets gives you design flexibility that you can’t get with some wider, higher volume deck drain systems.
4. Aesthetic and Safety Considerations
Once a deck drain is installed in your pool, the only evidence you have is the top grate – or grille, as some call it. The selection of the grate will determine how much attention is brought to the drain and how safe the grate will be to pool goers. My first “Rule of Thumb” is to make deck drain grates “barefoot friendly”. The openings should be small enough to prevent a toe from getting caught in it. This is not always possible if you have some really inquisitive children, however.
Decorative grates bring an added touch of elegance to the pool deck, but need to be selected with safety in mind. Cast iron metal grating not only can rust and become unsightly but have a high heat capacity that are hot to the touch during summer months. Plastic, aluminum and bronze grates seem to be a more popular grating choice for deck drains in high foot traffic areas.
Grating color is another aesthetic parameter that comes into play. Grates made from plastic, metal and stone are all available in a varieties of color. White, tan and light grey are the three most popular deck drain colors. Darker grey grates are used in bluestone and some paver pool deck designs. Brass, bronze, stainless steel, cast iron and aluminum grates are popular in modern, designer pools.
Where to do research…..
After you have a drain design roughed out, visit www.DrainageKits.com and see some of the options available in kit form for pool applications. Look through all the drain options, not just pool and patio drains. You will be able to see options and pricing. While doing this research, you will begin to narrow down exactly what it is you want. If you still need to discuss the project, contact one of the drain professionals at Trench Drain Systems at 610-638-1221. They can offer more direction to your search and help with the project estimate.
Trench Drain Systems (TDS) is a leading supplier of trench and channel drain systems for residential and commercial applications. In addition to having a full line of products used for walk-in shower and driveway drainage applications, they carry an attractive assortment of swimming pool deck drains that are chosen for both their safety features and great looks.
Trench Drain Systems expanded its decorative offering for NDS Mini Channel with a new pattern of bronze and aluminum grating. The design, borrowed from Chester Cathedral in Chester, England, (shown below) is heel-proof, subdued and stylish. It adds a solemn aesthetic to the hardscape and hints of a yearning for the innocence of old.
Chester Cathedral, previously Saint Werburgh’s Benedictine Abbey, was built in the 10th century on the site of a church founded in part by the infamous Lady Godiva. The grating shown below was probably installed during a major rebuilding that occurred in the 1900s.
Trench Drain Systems adds the “Cathedral” grate to their decorative grating product line, which also includes a standard slotted grate and an oblong perforated pattern known as “Raindrops.” All three patterns are available in bronze and aluminum.
The bronze grates are available in a natural finish or a ground (polished) finish.
The aluminum grates, made from a corrosion resistant alloy, are available in 3 standard powder coatings as well as standard natural finish. The standard powder coating colors are Sand, Granite and White. Custom colors are available if your project requires that attention.
Each grate lends itself well to drainage applications in elegant outdoor living spaces and swimming pool deck. With two counter sunk holes allowing the grate to screw into the NDS Mini Channel, these grates are secure for even the most trafficked areas.
For involved drain designs, contact Trench Drain Systems at 610-638-1221 for help with your inquiry. One of our trained sales professionals will be available to help you with your drainage questions.
A trench drain can be an expensive item to install. First you have to invest time and energy into trying to solve a drainage problem. Then, there is the cost of the drain itself: channel, top grating and shipping costs.
Next, there is an expense associated with the installation. Maybe you use a contractor. Maybe you do it yourself and end up with a sore back or smashed thumb. You have concrete and other supply costs, as well. It all adds up. If it’s a home project, there is some personal frustration associated with the whole affair. So, in the end you want the drain to actually solve the problem.
Shortcuts and misunderstanding the breadth of the problem lead to a failed trench drain. Usually, I am brought in to consult with the project owner after the failed drain is discovered. I have seen enough of these to lump the failures into three categories.
There is a misconception that you don’t need to use concrete when installing a channel drain. Put this out of your mind. In most cases, you NEED to encase your trench drain in an envelope of concrete.
The only situation where you don’t need to pour concrete is in a paver patio that will never see vehicle traffic.
The example to the left shows a polymer concrete drain installed in a paver driveway. Polymer concrete has a high compressive strength but is brittle and easily breaks when dropped or put into a dynamic force situation.
The abutting paving stones could have settled a bit in this drive. The top edge of the trench drain became exposed to the dynamic forces of the car wheel, which broke the channel walls at the base of the drain. The contraction and expansion of the stones freezing and thawing may also have played a role in the disintegration of the drain.
Originally, a modular trench drain was sold as a “form” which was used to when forming a drain out of concrete. The drain body wasn’t the strength of the system, it was the shape. When a drain is encased in concrete, the concrete takes the shape of the drain and becomes the strength of the drain. Often, suppliers will specify a thickness of concrete needed to achieve a specific drain load classification. Four inches are used in small automobile traffic. Eight inches for heavier loads.
A drain can’t merely be sitting adjacent to the concrete.
The concrete must encase the body of the channel intimately. In the example above, the client poured the concrete allowing a gap for the trench drain to be grouted in after the fact. Because there was no support below or from the sides of the channel, the plastic channel body and grates were easily crushed under the weight of an automobile. If the entire drain was supported by concrete, the weight load of the car would have been transferred to the concrete and the drain would still be intact.
“Can I use asphalt to install my drain?”
Generally, I would say “No”. I have seen situations where the majority of the drain was encased in concrete, but the top surface adjoining the drain was tamped with asphalt. That is doable if the contractor takes care not to crush the drain during asphalt compaction, but that is not a risk I’d like to promote.
Encasing the entire drain in concrete is preferred – and easier for the installer. The asphalt can be compacted next to the concrete. If there is an aversion to the contrast between the light grey concrete and the black asphalt, one could always seal coat the concrete to make it blend in. If not, you may end up with a drain that looks like the photo below.
Improper Drain Selection
You can install a product beautifully, but if you install the wrong drain you are not going to have a good time. Such is the case when you put a plastic drain in an area that sees fork truck traffic (below).
For applications where a drain is going to see repeated automobile, delivery truck or fork truck traffic, a heavier duty drain is required.
I recommend drain bodies made from HDPE or polymer concrete with grating recesses that are supported by embedment concrete (i.e. the grate is wider than the channel opening). Channel bodies capped with a metal frame and heavy duty grating are more preferable.
Some drains are meant to be used in light duty, residential applications only. Those little plastic drains you buy at the big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, and Menard’s) are meant for use in a patio or maybe a driveway with little automobile traffic. Often, the channels are made from extruded cellular PVC and the structural support on which the grating rests is made entirely of plastic. The light duty construction of these channels will have a tendency to break under heavy loads or due to the freeze-thaw episodes seen in the winters up north.
Another improper drain selection situation is when you install a drain that will see a larger amount of water than it can handle.
The drain can be installed perfectly, but if the drain is overrun with a deluge of water, it is not serving its purpose.
A Pipe Size Calculation is nice to do prior to selecting your drain just to double check that you have a drain that can handle the water flow anticipated.
Improper Grating Selection
An incorrect grating selection can also lead to trench drain problems. The most common problems arise when the grating either has:
Insufficient load rating or
Insufficient chemical resistance
Load rating problems are common.
The cheaper grates generally have a lower load class. Class A load gratings, for pedestrian applications, are sometimes used where automobile traffic is frequent thus leading to grating failure. I’ve seen contractors or engineers choose a lower class grating because it met the budget of the project. Later, of course, the owner of the project would have to replace the grates anyway.
This is the case for the example to the left. A winery had stainless steel slotted grates installed that had Class A loading. The application actually needed a grating with a much higher load rating. As stainless steel is expensive enough, the project settled on the cheaper stainless grates only to come back later looking to replace the grates with the appropriate stainless steel product. Money could have been saved by making this decision during the initial installation.
Insufficient chemical resistance is also a common example of an improper grating selection.
We don’t always think about the quality of the water or environment that the drain is going into. Sometimes it just slips our mind. Additionally, we may want to ignore the chance that the drain is in an aggressive environment because that will force us to consider more expensive, chemical resistant grating options.
Consider those folks that live near the sea coasts of Florida, California or Washington. The salt water atmosphere plays havoc on cast iron and galvanized steel. Eventually, trench covers corrode and need replacing. For coastal environments, it is wise to consider a stainless steel, HDPE or fiberglass grate when possible.
Likewise, in dog kennel applications, galvanized steel grating eventually corrodes from the dog urine and harsh cleaning chemicals used. This leads to a premature replacement of the grates. For non-profit organizations, who are always looking to cut costs, it is tempting to use a low cost galvanized steel grate for the kennel application. It would be better in the long run to use a stainless steel or perforated HDPE grating so to avoid expenses later.
The photo below shows how a galvanized steel grate can corrode and deteriorate in a kennel application.
Much of these problems can be summed up to poor workmanship. Here are a couple take-aways:
Make sure the contractor installing your drain knows what he is doing. Is this his first trench drain installation or has he had a number of successful products?
Don’t leave it to the contractor to find you a drain. He might just go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and come back with a plastic drain that is incorrect for the application or aesthetically displeasing.
If you’ve been looking for a MEArin 100 installation guide, you’re in luck!
Trench Drain Systems partnered up with a customer last month to create an accurate install guide designed specifically for the MEArin system.
I love MEArin 100. I worked with it for years, and I’ve found that it has some great things going for it, especially for homeowners who need an affordable drain around the house.
Versatility. MEArin 100 is the right size for a patio or pool situation, yet it’s tough enough for driveway applications.
Cover Selection. To quote a coworker, MEArin 100 comes with “billions and billions of grating option.” While I don’t think it’s quite so high, MEArin 100 does
DIY Friendly. All the parts assemble easily in MEArin 100. And, installation doesn’t require technical expertise. It’s great for the residential do-it-yourselfer!
Here’s how it happened:
When we asked MEA to send us an accurate install bulletin for MEArin 100, they sent us the same incorrect one we’d been using for years. They didn’t have an installation guide for the system, either.
We wouldn’t send contractors off to install commercial drains without a bulletin, so why were we doing it to homeowners with less experience? It wasn’t acceptable. So we decided to make our own.
At the same time, one of our customers who had purchased MEArin 100, offered to send us photos from his installation. A retired engineer, he even took the time to make suggestions for our new installation guide based on his experience installing the drain.
We’re proud to have an installation guide that is easy for DIY homeowners to reference. Use it for your own MEArin 100 installation – or as a basic guide for any driveway installation.
Need professional advice? Give Trench Drain Systems a call at 610-638-1221 or send a request to our estimating department!
Last week we had a reader email us with a patio drain question. Namely, how could he replace the worn plastic channels of his patio drain, which was separating from the concrete floor?
Curiosity about the drain itself aside, I am more concerned with the installation’s integrity. As you see in the photo, he pulled up some of the drain. No trench drain – not even a plastic patio drain – should pull up so easily.
A patio drain installed in concrete should be “gripping” the concrete. As plastic drains age they tend to separate, letting water between the edges. Ultimately, this deteriorates the concrete and creates troublesome moisture within the patio floor. For more information on sealing damp concrete, this helpful article by The Concrete Network has more detail.
This is why most new models of plastic channel drains feature some sort of rib or ledge. Extra surface area gives more “grip” and lends the drain more longevity it wouldn’t otherwise have.
The NDS Pro Series channel drain product line prides itself on this feature.
I see two solutions to the underlying problem here:
Using a concrete saw, cut a minimum 4” on either side of the drain. Remove the old channels and concrete. Pour concrete around a new patio drain of the same size – but one that has more “grip.”
Without widening the trench, remove the current patio drain. Secure and install a smaller channel drain in concrete. Since the channel is smaller, you may need an outlet adapter to meet the old piping hook-up (e.g., a 2” outlet to 4” pipe adapter).
I hope this gives you a couple ideas about how to fix separating patio drains. Still have questions? Send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org. For purchasing questions, give Trench Drain Systems a call at 610-638-1221.